FourAlaskans

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A tale of two valleys

The last few days have found again some quite and routine to our lives as we were in the same place for 5 nights. We got caught up on the blog (thanks for all the kind comments and those following along) and began to get caught up on work and school related items.  Each afternoon we have headed out to explore the surrounding valleys and again the more you see and know, the more there is to see and know. 

The most memorable part for me was the two small valleys that came off of the fjord, one going to the Briksdalsbreen glacier and the other, Lovatnet Lake with the Kjenndal Glacier at the end.  We live in Alaska, we have seen glaciers, beautiful valleys, emerald green lakes, but all I can say is WOW.  I feel silly even putting pictures up as they did not do justice.   

The valley headed to Brikesdalsbreen was a beautiful countryside with red barns among florescent green fields and emerald green lakes nestled below the hanging glacier and thundering waterfalls.  The owner of our current Airbnb is a third generation photographer and his grandfather grew up in this valley.  His grandmother lived in another town, over the top of the ice field and sold cheeses and milk across the glacier.  At that time there were no roads so people traveled via the fjord or over the glacier.  One day she came over the glacier and into the valley to sell cheese, meet his grandfather and never left, swearing it was the best valley in the whole world.  Driving up I could see why.  

The road up the valley is just big enough to get tour buses (if you drive very creatively) and we happened to pick a day where three large ships were in port.  The road essentially changed to a walking path near the ships and masses of tourist swarmed the streets.  Less paid to take a bus up to the glacier, but plenty still made it and many we overheard saying it was the best day of their trip so far.  The trail up to the hanging glacier itself was only a few miles and a great trail, but many took a cart that would take them to the top.  The car full of tourists smoking and taking iPad videos passed as we made our way up the trail.  However, the forces of nature left no-one alone drenching everyone from the mist of an incredible waterfall you had to pass, like a troll taking its price for using their bridge.   The water is very high this year due to the high temperatures (highest ever recorded) and the glacial melt comes pounding of the glacier with awe-inspiring force.  Despite the crowds, it was well worth the visit.

The following day we got a slower start and headed up towards Lovatnet Lake out of the town of Loen just passed where we started our climb up Mt. Skala. This valley is much steeper and the road (most of the time one way where you had to back up if another car comes to your direction until someone finds a wider spot) feels barely big enough for our tiny eco car and too small for buses.  It too had a fascinating, yet tragic history.  Twice in the early 1900's huge rock slides came off the surrounding cliffs, landing in the lake below creating a wave so great, wiping out the town and some 135 people living there.  There are no permanent residents but the rock slide created this huge underwater sandbar so the lake almost looks like the water magically is milky on one side and deep emerald green on the other.  

The valley had a power to it and I was craving a longer road run, so off I went.  The rest of the family rented a rowboat and I headed up the road where it ends essentially in a terminal moraine at the base of another stunning hanging glacier.   As my feet rhythmically pounded the pavement to the sound of the surrounding waterfalls, sweaty, tired and completely content I breathed in a deep breath of gratitude for all in the world that has gotten me to this point.  How lucky I am to have a body that moves, a family I love, a mind that works, meaningful work and space to only think about my breath and let the surrounding valley hold me.  

Kids headed up to the first glacier with waterfalls everywhere.

Here the girls are crossing the bridge under an amazing waterfall near the base of the glacier. The sign said it can produce 10,000 liters a minute and there was so much spray that the whole area and everyone who came near were drenched.

Coming back through you can see the waterfall from a different angle and its eternal rainbow.

Big One’s favorite picture of the day. I think they are getting tired of us saying, "hey smile" so this is what we got this time. You can see the wind in their hair from the force of the nearby the falls.

Once we got to the glacier and the lake - off went the shoes and on went the imagination.

One more waterfall (I am not even sure I the noticed the one in the picture when I took it)

Near the end of the road at Lovatnet Lake. You can see the glacier in the background, rent a bike or a boat or have a very bitter cup of coffee here.

The girls and the boat

Little One helping to pull the boat in.

The end of the road: a place with few people, incredible views and I think the best "turn around" point for a run ever.

A welcome site: my family rowing back (with the car keys!).

On the left you can see the large section of broken rock with no trees where the rock had fallen almost a hundred year ago.