Haa Valley with Dawa
Most volunteers take off for the weekend, exploring the parts of the country we are allowed to explore. Interestingly Bhutan has divided itself into 20 different districts and where we could travel was pre-determined. We were allowed to travel to Has, Paro and Thimphu districts freely. We could obtain a permit to go to Punakha or Bumthang, everything else was off limits. We also quickly realized that it was winter, and the snow kept shutting the passes that connect us to almost everything besides Thimphu (the district we lived in) and Paro (the area we flew into). Haa is a rural community on the other side of the impressive Chele La Pass from Paro, at over 13,000 it is the highest road pass in Bhutan. The districts of Has was only open to tourist in 2002 and is one of the least visited regions in the country. Finally, it had not snowed for a week, and so the pass was open, and we decided to make a go for it.
The trip was a welcome change of pace and a chance to see much more rural Bhutan and 10+ hrs of driving and 2 days later we were grateful we went, grateful for our new friend and guide and glad to not be in a car again.
This monastery along the road was once a prison. When the death penalty was in place in the country, they would simply tie people up and push them off the cliff on the back side of the monastery. After Bhutan was untied and Buddhism became the predominate region, lethal punishment ended and this stunning location was turned into a monastery.
We were going to stop by the nunnery on the way up the pass, but the road was covered in snow, so we walked the rest of the way.
I love how small the world is - Suzanna is the daughter of my uncle and aunt’s good friend. She is in Bhutan for three years teaching at a school started by the King and it was a wonderful having lunch with her, leaning of all her stories. I felt like I was woven to the rest of my life while I was here. I was at a small advisory board meeting and 2 of the doctors there knew Melanie and Shankar who are here for 2 years. In our apartment we found a note from John and Ellien. Turns out it is the same Elline who was my pediatrician growing up, and John is my aunt’s good friend. One day while working in the ED, I find out “a guy from Utah is coming”. Turns out Scott Macintosh who runs the wildness medicine fellowship and was a fellow when I was resident in Utah was coming in town for a few days and Charlie who started the helicopter program is doing research with Ken Zafren who I have worked with back in Alaska. It was funny to be so far away, yet so connected all at the same time. One more way Bhutan quickly became home.
At the first chorten with Dawa. Dawa came recommended to us a diver with mad skills, good english an always willing to hep. This trip took us from acquaintances to fast friends. He drove with caution and skill. He knew us foreigners believe in seatbelts and want to use them. He both shared stories of Bhutans’s past and we discussed the hopes for its future. We learned words of dzongkha from him and saw sights we never would have seen on our own.
Making the way to Nunnery.
Following the girls.
Come on little one.
I could have put together a whole blog of pictures of these two. Traverse and Dawa quickly hit it off and often the two of them would be out front hiking, talking about who knows what I am sure enjoying the quiet and adult conversations.
As Lily and I came down the road we found this - you never know with these two.
Once we got to the top of Chele La Pass we ventured up towards a mediation hut. The wind was cold and blowing and the girls had not understood we were going for a hike, and I had not realized how late it would be but we finally had made it here, so we ventured up.
Our fearless leader looking at the setting sun wondering if we would make it before dark.
And as we climbed he put on layers and it got colder.
These two off again, leading the way into the clouds.
The final push to the summit in the final rays of light.
And at last, the meditation hut, well above 14,000 with the mountains falling away in all directions in the yellow glow of the setting sun.
Dawa, in his infinite kindness brought to the top warm sweet tea and crackers, fruit, nuts and cracked rice. I am not sure a cup of tea ever tasted so good. Dawa went above and beyond and saved the day. The kids inhaled the food. Isabelle like a wilted flower burst back to life jumping most of the way back down. I took it all in, the tea, the setting sun, the lessons we learn by pushing ourselves a little further outside of our comfort zone.
All smiles again with tea in her hand, food in her belly.
Pulling her arms out of her jacket to balance her self on the rocks on the way down as we scrambled to make it to the car without totally getting lost in the dark.
The back side of the mediation hut. A quick look an we all decided we were not ready for meditating in this cold hut for any amount of time, especially not the 3 years, 3 months and 3 days the Bhutanese monks mediate as the communication of their training.
Headed back down. These pictures never do the mountains justice, how each layer changes colors as the sun slowly slides lower reacting the light and brining each layer into focus before it slips below the horizon.
Dawa letting us know we missed the trail and me showing the girls where we took a wrong turn. Again, grateful for our guide.
Once again, despite our fears of the darkness, the moon was full ocean again, the sunset lated longer than expected and I have decided getting stuck high in the mountains in Bhutan at sunset is my favorite things. The oxygen requirement declining at altitude, the full tummies, the immense beauty of it all made the way down a breeze, full of warmth, light and love.
At then end of our hike was a curvy two hour drive down to the Haa Valley in the dark. Given the lack of tourism, the main places to stay in the Haa Valley were guest houses. The way down as I was trying to keep my stomach in I was envisioning a cold, dark home where we would be curdled around the fire and would try to make the bed work (much like our apartment at home) but what we walked into was pure luxury. A warm fire, hot water, beautiful warm beds and delcious food. The Soednam Zingkha Heritage with its handprinted walls in this forth generation home they clearly took amazing care of was pure luxury and a wonderful end to our day. Lily the next morning enjoying her tea after a warm shower the the handprinted walls behind her.
Isabelle in the mean time found a friend.
The girls were so happy, warm, feed, time to knit. The little beautiful details of this quiet valley and home were a welcome treat.
I think if she had her way, she would have liked to be picked up in a week and just sit in the sun and knit.
The fifth king stayed here about three years ago. He is known as the king of the people and traveled all around the country. This was his room, now locked and decorated. Again, the hand painted walls everywhere were wonderful.
On our way into breakfast, all of the beautiful additions at this home.
As we waited for the girls to go for a hike, this pack came down the road, full of goods.
The simplicity of Haa was a welcome change and stunningly beautiful mountains.
We explored the valley. Both India and Bhutan have military bases in the valley and this is basically where the road ends. Two passes over by foot and you are in Tibet. The tension between China and India and this little mountain country between the two is palpable. On our way home we walked though another 108 white prayer flags left to remember someone who has gone before. These flags have begun to feel like home, always present, always a reminder of the close dance between life and death.
On our way up.
On final stop on the way out of town - another beautiful monastery, full of dragons, prayer wheels and inside the fattest cat I have ever seen.
Sun touching the prayer wheels.
The whole monastery was in amazing shape and one of my favorite. Calm, beautiful, no one else really around tucked in the mountains it was peaceful and beautiful.
On our way home we got to see a lot more of traditional life in Bhutan. Indian workers making the road, wood being collected or hay for the cows. This women said we could take her picture but kept laughing and we told her she was so strong, she broke out into a huge smile. She seems the fitting end to a great weekend, one we wish we had more time to enjoy.