Sapa
Thick blankets of fog roll in and out of Sapa, like a haunted time-lapse video, engulfing the hills and then releasing them as quickly as they came. Colorfully dressed women appear in traditional clothing asking “where u frooom?” and simply “shooopping?” as they thrust bracelets, bags, and headbands our way. Rice paddies climb up the cliffs seeming to defy gravity and construction pounds the narrow streets striving to meet throngs of tourist who pulse through this gateway to a simpler life.
We headed to Sapa to return to the mountains, cooler weather and transition into phase three of this journey: rebuilding. After letting go and breaking down barriers, it was time to embrace this final phase of our as we seem to be racing towards the end.
There were practical parts of this transition that happened in Sapa: math finals, book reports, taxes, SMART goals and then the most tangible of them all: the purchasing of tickets home. There were also intangible parts like the feeling of space or breath that comes from choosing a path and moving forward.
Part of why we came on this year, was to be better about finding our own paths. As we settled into our now familiar role of being in a place longer than a traveler but shorter than a local, I realized how much more comfortable we had all become at uncertainty and choosing our own way. The contrast between our wonderings and Sapa's waves of pre-planned tour industry was striking.
Our time on the year has never run evenly. It has been more like the fog, sometimes lingering, sometimes racing ahead, and the lessons of what we are learning has felt much the same. Seeping through the walls we have built over time, this year has been nourishing part of our souls we didn’t know we had. When the clouds lift, I see Lily inches taller than when we started, strong and kind and ready to take on the world. Isabelle is on the cusp of adulthood, confident and compassionate with the spark of adventure growing stronger by the day and like the fog that I cannot hold or the rainbow I cannot catch, I am just trying to embrace the moments as they come.
To get to Sapa we opted for the night train, an iconic piece of history that rumbles through the countryside leaving Hanoi around 10 pm and arriving in Sapa around 5 am. We decide to go to Sapa and purchased these train tickets only hours we boarded, a far cry from our pre planned time in Norway. Given the late timing of our purchase we were left with one of the simple sleeping cars, 4 beds tucked in a berth, but perfect for our family. The train had an impressive sway as it rumbled along, coming only inches from many of the buildings in Hanoi and going to the restroom left both the girls saying “I think the safety standards are really different here” as they looked down at the unprotected railroad tracks racing by.
The first morning in Sapa, the sun tried to shine through the fog which we would soon learn is the normal weather here, with striking mountains and song birds.
The town itself was this funny balance between 5 star hotels and rural living. The heart of the town was this town center where women all day long were offering to show you “their village” and small kids caring each other in traditional cloths offering “massage” when they held out things for sale, confusing the words, just knowing “other” people want “shopping” and “massage” and give you money in return.
Walking down to the most famous village in Sapa - Cat Cat was lined with things to purchase. But these kids playing up and down the sidewalk were the best, helping each other out, full of giggles.
The kids always traveled in little packs, far away from any parents, this other set of three almost give me a heart attack climbing down a huge ledge with a cliff and running river below. I feel like we have tried to not be over protective for our children, but watching these kids play took “free range” parenting to a whole new level. It got to the point that I had to walk away after trying to convince them not to play there, convicted I was going to watch one of them plunge to their death. They all made it back fine, but seriously left my heart pounding.
These two were the older girls- in-charge of the play on this overlook of the river, some 30 feet up.
On the two sunny days we had we ventured out more on foot, this day on another path we found with our favorite trail app “Pocket Earth” that has great trails anywhere in the world we go. It reminded of of Nepal and the joy of sharing a trail for work and pleasure.
But times are changing here in Sapa and the old trails are being replaced by concrete “roads” to shuttle visitors gear so they can “trek” from village to village. However the roads also make it easier to get supplies and the whole family to town. This is just such a familiar sight in Vietnam, but I can’t get over it.
Another family taking advantage of the improved access to climb above the rice fields that are getting ready to be planted.
One day when we went hiking, Lily put on her pants as it was finally cool enough to do so, and it was striking how much she has grown this year. When we left Alaska these pants covered her ankles.
I know, I know. Motorcycle = Donorcycle. But we would have never left this year if we were afraid of all the things that could happen. Traverse is a good driver and we had helmets. Much of this area can only been seen on motorcycle or after many days of walking (or mountain biking which would be awesome here but never could find any to rent) so we opted for trips out on the motorized two wheels; Traverse driving and changing out who went along - often in this jacket to improve visibility in the fog. All is well that ends well.
But I am always happiest on my own two feet and got some great one on one times with each of the girls in Sapa, here out exploring in the mist.
When we ended up walking through villages not on the “tourist” path, we were delighted to find tons of pigs, chickens and friendly kids. This girl was sporting her Norwegian inspired Frozen dress.
All smiles on our way through the village.
Two little ones just keeping an eye on the water buffalo in the mist.
These guys are fun to watch, always hanging out in the muddy fields. I have ben surprised both here and in Cambodia how much they are still used.
This one had a thing for Lily with a great stare off making it easier for me to get a picture.
We kept watching these little chicks climb in and out from under their mom. Lily could have spent all day here.
As we headed home so were these women, just in the opposite direction.
Brief moments of sun yielded amazing views of the rice paddy fields, early in their season this time of year and striking for how the whole hill sides have been rebuilt to fit the needs of the people.
As we were walking we did end up talking to these women for a while. “La La” and “Bla” were headed to town and kept trying to get us to come to “their village” but we were headed home for the day. Instead they showed up how they weaved, we swapped stories about kids growing up too fast and they gave us bracelets after we asked them if we could take their picture.
They were sweet and funny and watching Traverse with them, it was like he was a giant, the height differences profound.
The stories these women have, it was a joy to spend the afternoon with them.
Making our way up the hillside, farmers working in the distance.
These guys were everywhere. Funny to watch, full of sounds and cleaning up everything.
More free range kids jumping down the embankment without an adult in site.
Near the town of Sapa these beautiful gardens grow to serve the demands of the travelers who want more than rice, pig and chicken for dinner.
Isabelle and Traverse out exploring the Silver Waterfall outside of town.
One day we headed down a different path, quiet and peaceful. Not another tourist for most of the 6 miles past streams and farms.
A whole line up of kids working the fields. Most of the time it was the women and children working the fields, doing the road construction, selling the wears and doing almost every job in town.
Kids herding water buffalo - they were hilarious, jumping off the mounds of the rice fields, throwing rocks and having great time.
More little ones out and about.
Though much of Northern Vietnam these goats roam the hills and then later fill dinner menu.
More chicks trying to stay warm.
Almost every restaurant in town had their roasted pig on a spit and chicken, carving up what was needed when you ordered.
And the local market was full of more chickens to roast when you ran out.
While we loved taking pictures of locals, the girls continue to be a hit. Isabelle gets a wedding proposal regurally and here the girls were doing handstands in the grass when a group, stopped their driver and came running over to get a selfie with them. I guess it is really no different then us getting a selfie with LaLa and Bla, but always funny to be on the other end.