There is this balance, this challenge to getting off the beaten path, to see and learn what life is like in another place without getting lost entirely and doing it as a family of four. Twenty years ago I would hop on a bus and see where I landed, but as a family, it is all just a bit more complicated - each with our own needs and desires and just a lot more people in the mix.
We decided to try something different and hired a guide to help us bike from Ho Chi Minh Vietnam to Angkor Wat in Cambodia. The hope of biking was to get off the beaten path and take in the sights, sounds and smells a different way while all getting some exercise. There were lots of hesitations. How would Traverse's back do? Could we all handle the heat? None of us have been biking or training for this, could we jump on and do it? It was also a lot more costly than just taking the bus on our own, but after our day with Chu, where the girls had a blast, and we saw the possibility of life on a bike in the Delta, we signed up.
And how was it you ask? It was everything all at once. It was inspiring, beautiful, hot, dry, funny, stressful, challenging, rewarding and both ever changing and always the same. It was something we would have never been able to do on our own.
Most of the biking was on small trails or back roads where local kids would see us and come running through the fields shouting "Hello! Hello!" and grandmothers would do a 180 watching Lily bike down the path. People would stop our guide to tell him there was a road nearby and they were sure we could get a ride - after all, we looked so tired and sweaty, why were we biking? He would tell them we wanted to and we were going 50-60 km a day and they looked like they didn't understand.
There were days so hot and dusty you could ring your clothes out from the sweat, and everything was covered with orange-brown dust of the delta.
There were rewarding moments like when Lily learned to bike without hands through the deserted back roads of Cambodia. And there were the moments where tears came when she tried again later up a hill on pavement and took a hard tumble.
There were moments of awe and wonder as the water buffalo ate in the setting sun among the rice fields or the reflection of the hard work for salt farmers collecting the dryng sea water by hand.
There were moments of pure bliss watching the girls chat about life, peacefully talking together through the countryside and moments where I was counting every second until the end as my body ached and trying to hide my exhaustion and put on a happy face for a kid who was done but still had miles to go.
There were hidden temple in the woods, newborn puppies, run down monasteries and killing fields.
There was Karaoke at random houses, local kids sitting in our lap enjoying a laugh as their mother counted and cleaned snails for sale. Often our guide would stop at some random home and ask if we could hang out and take a break, both puzzling and delighting some local family.
We all got sick at one point. I have never passed out vomiting before, but now I know what that is like, but the trip must go on. Zofran, Imodium, Ibuprofen, and band-aids were our best friends.
I let go of many rules. One day Isabelle biked most of the day barefoot - who was I to say shoes would be better? She knows the risks at this point. None of us had biking clothes - we made do with what we had, and the simplicity of it was freeing.
We got behind on most everything, work, school, the blog - just taking a picture was a challenge as you bumped over the dried dirt road, dodging a dog, or pig, or kid, or chicken and the motto "you can do hard things" was repeated more times than I can count.
We didn't make any speed or distance records, but we saw, we experienced we lived those ten days fully. As Traverse said regularly, we could not think of another place in the world where you could bike for so many days on flat, basically bike trails with kids and see and experience so much rich local culture. This blog and these pictures are just the tip of the iceberg of our trip within our trip, biking to Cambodia.